The sunset was passed for a couple of hours and a lady-guest of our island, recently, asked me which was the illuminated country she saw in front of the sea. "Lady, what you see are flashes, are the lights of the squid fishing".

Driven by a strong sense of nostalgia, I remember when I was a kid, I felt my first emotion upon boating at night with my father and my uncle Pietro. This was a great gift for me and my cousin Checco, just for remembering images and feelings of those moments.

Whole nights in blue water where all that darkness would have troubled even the more daring spirit.

Seeing only the black water, hearing the rhythmic sound of the deafening engine of our fishing boat, induced to total silence that was broken only when we reached our destination.

As soon as the engine was turned off, as if by magic, we felt better, and finally could speak as fishermen in the waters of the North: sweaters, hats, socks, "because at night the sea water gets into your bones".

 

And to think that before, in the fifties, the squids come on the beach (in the jargon were the "straquo") and they stopped there because the undertow was filled with sand will not make them move. Fram this fact derives the famous saying "You look like a squid". Today even more and more islanders go on boating in blue water at the "Night of the lights" and I still can not explain how, in total darkness, they could recognize each other the various fishermen. From a considerable distance they called by name, answering with phrases that broke the silence by the rushing waves under the moonlight.

I think that an islander who has never gone on boating at night to squishing, doesn't exist! And I think, although I am not a person accustomed to fishing, there is no more magical type of fishing, maybe the most fascinating.

From a purely technical point of view, I ask one of the many islanders, who for years has been deeply involved in the squid fishing: Giorgio Mattera, also known as "Negus". Fisherman's son with bull neck, wrinkles carved by salt, forearms tattooed in the best seafaring tradition make "Negus"the perfect "totanaro" (who fishes squids). With the ever-present cigarette, in Humphrey Bogart style, and sip of brandy, he begins by explaining the most important part: the preparation of "totanara" (the equipment for the squid fishing).

The totanara has an iron stem with a tuft of hooks for seizing the squid to one side, and the other a flashing light source that is used to attract it to the other side.

The totanara is linked to a nylon thread along at least 100 meters.

Around the stem there is the bait: the totanara is baited with slices of bacon, secured and a thin cotton thread, an operation that is performed by four hands.

Then there are the special bait and the favorite of George is perchia (a type of fish),that for the experienced fisherman is the best bait. The Squid - he tells me - becomes to move in late afternoon until just before dawn, so it is good to spend all these hours fishing in the greatest possible security. The best area is set not too far from the coasts, and the best time to fish is during the new moon. By now, all year round is recommended for fish squid, but the real "night of the lights" ranging from late July to September when the sea is rich in lights like an enormous stage with stars and moon all around. Giorgio tells me that the magic of the squid fishing starts when you observe the sparkle of the plankton that rises to the surface and feel the water moving, like the dart of a fish: this is the signal of the presence of a greater amberjack and hungry dogfishes: a good signal.

Once the positions are assigned on board, waiting begins fantasizing about what could happen under the boat, what happens down there. Each fisherman with its own bait in his hands, the bucket and the line between his feet, lets go down the line, 30-40 meters, waiting for feeling a tug on his fingers, a sign that something has taken the bait.

Sometimes for the fishermen is an endless waiting and in the meantime, they have a break, hoping that at that very moment the shellfish does not 'knock'! Giorgio tells me that when you take out the squid must be careful because it splashes the water from the bag as an unmistakable and 'vindictive' signal. "Negus" tells me that in the past they were used to keeping a stove boat to taste the squid with zero mile, very natural.... Today it is almost a must to take the squid home so that wives can cook one of the most important tastiness of the cuisine of Ischia, one of a kind: the stuffed squid. It is a tasty dish with bread, oil, parsley, black olives, capers, raisins, pine nuts, oregano, tomato sauce, tenderloin, eggs, giving the dish a distinctive flavor because it captures the sweet and salty cleverly fused together.

Of course the thought of a dinner with stuffed squid, gladdens the return but for Giorgio and all those who love "the night of the lights" this is the time to listen in silence the noise of the wind, weak and wet, waiting for seeing the lights of the port that, like a comet, show the way. They have salt on the face, but the fatigue that assails them disappears and turns into joy and happiness: now it's time to the squid fishing!